In the first shot here, this guy is looking up and back at the wave he just caught, pointing at it and seemingly having a few words to it, but in the second shot which was taken a couple of minutes later he is standing on the beach looking out into the break and waiting for the front half of his board to appear after copping the same wave on the head after his little conversation with it........these waves were breaking very close to shore in shallow water for the end of the ride.